I have W 7. I don't understand what the "Limitations" explanation means. Will program migrate W7?
LIMITATIONS MIGRATE Win 7?
(6 posts) (4 voices)-
mikiem2
ModeratorAssuming you mean:
Limitations: Note! This version doesn’t include WinPE bootable media required for migration of a 64-bit Windows 7 or later configured to the UEFI boot mode.
IF you've got a system that uses UEFI bios, probably along with a GPT system disk/partition, it may not work without the full version's WinPE setup. There may be alternatives, or given some of the problems I've seen dealing with UEFI Bios paired with GPT, there's no guarantee using the full version will work either. It's hard to predict unless someone's done whatever using identical hardware, because different UEFI Bios vary so widely.
That said, Paragon Migrate OS to SSD will copy your system partition to a SSD, & make sure the SSD's partition is aligned properly. Once you've gotten to that point the only variable is if the boot mgr. works. If it doesn't, EasyBCD can fix things, it's free, & it works/runs portably. If you have a generic WinPE type image that'll boot from a CD/DVD/USB device [see reboot.pro] you can run Easy BCD then. If not, in any case before you try a migration like this you should have a system partition image backup, including the boot records, so worse case restoring that backup everything works normally with your original drive & you can run Easy BCD then, just changing the boot device order in the Bios.
Why bother? Paragon Migrate OS to SSD might be better than what your SSD maker provides, or they might not provide anything at all.
Posted 11 years ago # -
Whiterabbit-uk
Games GuruMy SSD's are Corasir SSD's. They provided nothing in the way of software nor, if my memory serves (which it usually doesn't) any advice on migrating operating systems to an SSD.
It's not really bothered me as I've always been one for zapping my drives every so often to get rid of all the bloatware and unused programs that I've accumulated (mainly giveaways and freeware games). I used to do it a couple or more times a year when my drives were less than a terabyte, but now with sewveral TB's of HHD's and half a TB of SSD space I don't need to; especially once I cottoned on to not installing anything apart from the OS and allowing My Documents and user folders to install onto the C: drive. Soooo..... even though I have some excellent 'purchased' programs such as Acronis, I rarely use them (in fact, the last time I used an Acronis backup, it failed), so I rely on a couple of DVD backups of all the programs I consider essential when reinstalling an operating system for example my copy of Capture Wiz Pro, either Process Lasso or the Anvir Task Manager (I prefer the latter, but it depends on which I see first) as well as several other programs and a whole host of drivers for my graphic cards, audio card etc. Amazingly, many of the drivers I've installed in the past weren't required when I installed Win 8 early last month.
I always back up stuff I want to keep befopre zapping my drives onto externals, tophugh recently, since getting a decent database program that will place all the contents of DVD's CD's and Blu-Rays into an easy to use format, and since getting a blu-Ray recoreder for my last build, i've taken to stopring most of my backups onto 25GB Blue Rays. I can get 25 discs for less than £20, so they work out reasonably cheap. I realize you can get a reasonably sized external of say 2TB for around £100 (I've lost track of the prices since the bad floods in Thailand wiped out the main manufacturing base for HDD's, which caused a sharp rise in prices back in 2011. I think the prices have come down since, but not to the pre flood levels, when you could pick up a 3TB drive for less than £100 (approx $150). Still £100 represents 125 Blu-Ray discs which in turn are 25GB each, so you're actually getting a lot more than 2TB that you'd pay as an equivalent in price i.e. 3.125TB. Not bad actually. I feel the blu=Ray discs are safer. I've already lost two 2TB externals due to plugging in the wrong power transformer. I think the memory platters are okay, but I need a working power supply to run the discs so that I can recover the data. A lot of trouble basically.
Posted 11 years ago # -
ChrisS
Administratorbut I need a working power supply to run the discs so that I can recover the data
If you've got an open drive bay in one of your PCs then all you need do is open the external case, pull the drive, and insert it into an appropriate PC. There's nothing special about the drive in an external unit. You will void the warranty on the external case if you break the seal but the warranty isn't doing you any good since you don't want to send it back to the manufacturer for replacement and lose all your data. Plus, the drive is under its own separate warranty. The case is warrantied on the case serial number, the drive on the drive serial number.
Or, you could simply buy a new external drive bay and stick the drive in it.
Posted 11 years ago # -
Whiterabbit-uk
Games GuruI've never stripped an external drive before, so didn't realize it was just a bog standard drive inside the casing. I will try this as i do have a couple of drive bays free. I can access all of my drives from the front as there's a locking mechanism inside the left hand case cover that unlocks them all. This is used partly so that I can remove the dust filters from the three fans located at the front of the case plus I can slide easily disconnect and slide out most of the discs if i wish.
I'm not sure whether there's a separate power linkage that links the socket/plug on the externals case to the socket on the hard drive within. I suspect that where the problem is lies within the actual hard drives case. I'm hoping there's a fuse protecting the drive, but i doubt it)
I've accidentally shorted out the contacts on a HDD once (I stupidly unplugged it while the computers power was still on). An arcing spark burned out a circuit board that controlled the voltage entering the HDD's electronics. (I remember the thing popping as the plug was removed then the acrid smell associated with burnt circuit boards invaded my nostrils.
I suspect something similar has happened with both of the externals, though not because of a short, but via an overload. They were both 2TB Samsung drives; with exactly the same specs and the same cases. Both used a 10v DC transformer. The one I used turned out to be a 20 volt one that had been accidentally mixed up with the ones used for all of my externals (all of which used the same voltage). I didn't check as I thought they were all transformers for my externals of which i have several. I'd stored all the transformers in a box located in my desk cupboard. I'd taken out the one I was sure was correct, plugged it in, but got no response, so plugged it into the second external. (very stupid I know, but I'm often half stewed due to the opiate meds I have to take). It turned out that the transsformer was one from a set of christmas lights. I usually label such things, but had neglected to with all of the external drives tranformers.
If I have time over the next few days i'll strip one of them down and see if I'm able to get it to work via my computer. If i do i'll be really grateful Chris as one of the drives has some family images that I'd not backed up to disc yet (I always keep a couple of backups of all my digital photos), evert since I purchased a dirt cheap pack of 50 CD's years ago (before DVD's were readily available), which I used to store images on. Many of those CD's lost parts of their silver covering and I could no longer access most of the images/ short videos. I did find paining the writable surface with black ink did enable me to save some images, but not all of them.
Posted 11 years ago # -
mikiem2
Moderator"Amazingly, many of the drivers I've installed in the past weren't required when I installed Win 8 early last month."
Win8 does have some excellent driver support... Lots of win7 drivers will work if there's not a win8 version available, though you might have to install them through device mgr., selecting the device, going to properties & then update drivers, finally browsing to the .inf file for the win7 driver set. That said, hardware manufacturers still don't trust MS enough to give them anything but the most basic driver, so you may find you get more features & better performance hitting up the different vender sites. What I do, & it's a PITA, is write down the numbers from the main chips on the motherboard, so I have a good ID for the networking, audio, 1394 etc... reason I go to the board itself is I've seen motherboard manufacturers make running model changes, so the actual network chip isn't the one advertised for example. Then just Google.
FWIW, in the US 1 TB drives start around the $50-$60 mark on sale, with 3 TB drives starting around $110-$120, but those are the cheapest, not necessarily the best, fastest drives. Lately there's been a run of really cheap pricing on 1 TB external drives too FWIW. If you have any problems connecting the 2 drives from the external housings, check out meritline.com -- they've got quite a few adapter cables, adapters, docks etc., even several adapters for the older IDE drives. That said, I want to add a caution for anyone else reading this thread... Chris is very right about yanking drives out of external housings, & in fact when the price is right lots of people buy externals just to get the drive inside, but be careful of external drives with a small physical size -- to achieve that small size manufacturers may not include the normal drive interface, so once you take it apart, voiding the warranty, you may find the drive is useless on it's own, without whatever electronics are in the housing or case. Lots of people have figured they'd get a cheap drive for their laptop, only to be unpleasantly surprised.
Posted 11 years ago #
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